|News||The Club||The Game||Social|
This page assumes a little familiarity with the game in general - those new to tiddlywinks are encouraged to read an introduction to the game first.
|A tiddlywinks set (24 winks) and pot, on a mat, with a range of squidgers. These are the tools of the trade. The felt mat is critical to play, since it is the "springiness" of the mat which is responsible for propelling the winks. Different squidgers are used for different shots. In many cases. it is helpful for precision for a squidger to have a sharp edge (though not so sharp as to damage the winks) and a lens-shaped profile; the rules dictate the limits on what is considered a legal squidger. The winks are standard ETwA issue, complying to the rules.|
|The squop is the most important
shot in the winker's repertoire, involving the placement of the
played wink on top of another wink - thus stopping the covered
wink from being played, and stopping it from contributing to
the score of its owning player.|
A squop is played by pulling the wink sideways into the mat while pressing down on it, dragging the squidger across the surface of the wink until it reaches the edge. As the squidger leaves the edge of the wink, the wink is released - the mat returns to its original shape, pushing the wink away from the direction where the squidger left it. The upward pressure on the wink from the mat propels the wink up into the air. By controlling the force applied to the wink before release, the player controls how far the wink moves.
A squop is typically played with the upper edge of the squidger tilted towards the direction in which the wink will travel. This means that as the wink is pushed upwards by the mat, it will be deflected off the lower edge of the squidger, keeping it on a low and controlled trajectory. A tilted squidger also keeps the leading edge of the wink from rising into the air, as can happen if only the rear of the wink is being pressed on. However, when trying to give the wink more height, for example when squopping onto a high pile of winks, the player may deliberately choose to keep the squidger more vertical to ensure the front edge of the wink lifts more.
Where possible, most people find it easier to squop towards themselves, moving the squidger off the end of the wink most distant from themselves. This allows a clearer view of how the squidger is leaving the wink, and makes it easier to ensure that fingers don't get in the way of the wink's travel. This is not always possible, for example when the pot is in the way of the player's hand, so it is useful to be able to squop away from oneself as well.
It is important to leave the side of the wink opposite the direction in which the wink is to travel. Not coming off the back of a wink can cause the wink to rotate in flight, making it likely to roll uncontrollably on landing. This is harder to control for longer shots.
It is useful not just to worry about capturing an opponent wink (any amount of coverage will do - a wink may only be "squopped" by a fraction of a millimeter) but also how to capture it. Having a lot of overlap between the winks makes it harder for an opponent to knock the higher wink off the squop, and make it easier to Bristol or gromp the two winks together, making them self-defending. Landing on one side of a squop make may it harder for an opponent to squop you in return, especially if your wink is sloping away from them.
Many players use a squopping motion, playing away from themselves, to bring winks into the game from the baseline. This tends to give better control over how a wink travels after it lands, at the cost of slightly less control over how far the wink initially travels. (This is open to debate.)
Squopping sends a wink in quite a low trajectory. One way squops can go wrong is to "sub" under the target wink.
|Squop-style shots are often used for tactical positioning of winks to strengthen an area (the "snoove") or as a minor repositioning in the absence of anything better to do (the "brundle").|
|The bristol is a squop, but rather than
moving a single wink, a pile of multiple winks is moved.
This allows a wink that is on top of a pile to defend itself,
and allows the building of larger piles. However, should
the shot miss or the pile separate, the danger of leaving the
opponent with means of claiming the pile is greater. A Bristol
requires that the uppermost wink be towards the back of the
lower one, from the point of view of the target wink. This only
really applies to the backmost surface, though, so a 'mushroom'
big-on-little squop can be Bristolled in any direction.
There are two common approaches to playing Bristols; the first is to play the upper wink squop style, making sure that enough force is on the lower wink to move it. The second, more common in Cambridge, is to use the squidger in the plane of the direction of movement, with the circular edge of the squidger used to push the winks almost horizontally. The further the line of the centre of the winks is from the desired direction of travel, the harder the shot.
If a pile of winks needs to be moved at right angles to its line, the best approach is to use a large squidger and to try to play them evenly - this is less reliable than a true Bristol, and is generally not safe for great distances.
At the other extreme, if the bottom-most wink is behind the uppermost in the desired direction of travel (or if you have a 'fried egg' little-on-big squop), a gromp must be played, in which both winks are played, squop-style, in one movement (the motion of the squidger must be quick and continuous, and the upper wink must be contacted first). It can take considerable skill to keep the winks together, but it is sufficient to keep the original squop and and cover the wink being attacked with just the upper wink:
|Alternatively, it can suffice for the lower wink to cover the target, so long as the uppermost wink remains on it:|
|Technically, the names Bristol and gromp are applied to the
movement of the piles, rather than whether they result in
squopping a wink. Small piles can often take several goes
to merge as they Bristol towards each other.|
Another shot, played in a similar manner to a Cambridge Bristol, is the Good Shot. If a small, flat wink is very close to a tall pile, this shot can be used to try to dismantle the pile from underneath. The tactic is to use a small, thick squidger in the plane of the direction of travel, but to press the wink very hard into the mat. The squidger is then drawn back very quickly, and the wink should travel very fast and low into the pile. It's a risky shot, because if the wink gets too much lift and misses the pile it can easily go off the table.
|A boondock (or "dock" for short) is typically used to free a wink
from the top of a squop, often as a precedent to potting it or as
a deliberate freeing shot after a "squop up". In
the process, since the lower wink will no longer be squopped, it is
usually sent as far away as possible.
If played properly, the upper wink normally does not move very
far. Naturally, the more completely the upper wink covers the
lower, the harder it is to apply force to the lower wink.
The trick is to brush the upper wink gently and apply a lot of force to the lower wink. Typically the lower wink is played out squop-style, with the upper wink pushed off around the circumference of the squidger, or pushed off the bottom of the squidger. The squidger must make contact with the upper edge of the uppermost wink first, and the motion of the squidger after winks start to move irreversibly must be quick and continuous. Since a boondock aims to send the wink a long way away, the wink is normally sent away from the player.
|The Chip Out|
|A chip shot is used when the owner of a wink on
top of a pile wants to remove another (typically friendly) wink
from the pile, while leaving the rest of the pile intact.
Often the best tactic when landing on a pile in which one's winks are underneath is simply to blow the pile apart. However, for small piles or piles which it would be useful to retain because they also contain a number of opposing winks, it can be worth trying more subtle tactics.
Because it is only legal to touch winks vertically under the one first played, pile play of this kind often requires independent adjudication. In addition, it must be the top surface of the wink that is played first, so it is not legal to merely brush the side of a wink.
In order to play a chip shot, the first thing needed is a steady hand. The second is usually a sharp squidger. The trick is to hit the top wink as lightly (and as near the edge) as possible, and to apply more force to the lower wink. It can be useful to have a squidger you can slide in at an angle under the top wink, although the movement of the squidger must be short, smooth and continuous. A small squidger can come in handy in avoiding winks in the same pile which it is not legal to play.
It can sometimes be useful to squop a wink of a partnering colour. By taking advantage of colour order, one of a team's winks can dock the other so that it lands close to an opposing wink, and the second colour may then get a chance to play before the opponent can respond. This can be especially valuable when defending against a potential pot-out.
|The John Lennon Memorial Shot|
|The John Lennon Memorial Shot (or Lennon for short) is a combination boondock and squop. The wink to be squopped must be fairly close to the existing squop, of course. A refinement of the boondock, the trick is to clip the topmost wink just sufficiently to send it in the right direction, while still putting enough power into the lower wink to dock it. If there is no chance of defending a squop which has a close attacker, this shot can leave the area balanced (requiring the opponent to bring in) without a numerical disadvantage.|
|The Pile Flip|
|A pile flip shot tries to invert a pile - or
part of a pile. For example, if blue lands on a
yellow, which is in turn on a red (red and blue being
partners), blue can try to invert the red and yellow,
sending itself clear. Generally a pile-flip should be played
quite gently, running the squidger down line of exposed winks
in a gentle form of a potting motion.
While spectacular, this shot is usually not too difficult, although there is often less risk of losing a squop if the bottommost wink can simply be chipped out. A pile flip does rely on the winks being set up favourably, and the top wink will often travel unpredictably.
|The pot is the most obvious shot in tiddlywinks, but often
plays a relatively small part in the game, at least until the last
few rounds. A potted wink is worth three "tiddlies" (table points)
compared with one for an uncovered but unpotted wink, but it is
often best to keep winks in play for as long as possible. A wink
that is sitting on top of an opposing wink is scoring one more
tiddly than the opponent, if it is uncovered; if they are both in
the pot, the scores are equal. A colour with five potted winks
may have the last wink squopped, and be unable to enact a rescue.
The opponents can then have a chance to pot all their winks
unhindered - so running into the pot early is a risk.|
However, being able to pot when necessary is important, especially late in the game when the opponent cannot counterattack.
A player who pots a wink of his own colour get another shot. For this reason, it is dangerous to let an experienced player have the chance to pot all six winks (or to pot five and to bring in safely). While there is a risk in potting, there is also a risk in letting the opponents pot - for this reason, many players have to throw away a strong position in order to avert the threat of a pot-out.
|To play a potting shot, the squidger is placed near
the centre of the wink, facing towards but with the upper
edge leaning away from the pot. The squidger is then
pulled back off the edge of the wink farther from the pot,
and the force the mat applies to the wink as the squidger
releases it propels the wink forward. The faster the
squidger is pulled back off the wink, the more the force
of the mat applies to the centre of the wink, pushing it
on a higher trajectory - very close the the pot, a "flick"
of the squidger may apply less downward force to the
edge of the wink than the centre, again increasing height.
a more vertical squidger pulls the wink less firmly
sideways, where a more horizontal one pull the wink more
firmly. The amount of force applied to the wink determines
how far it will travel as the mat returns to shape.|
Potting a wink that is near to the pot is therefore done by holding the squidger quite vertically and coming off the back of the wink fast:
|In contrast, potting a distant wink - or bringing in pot-style from the baseline - requires an almost horizontal squidger, pulled back slowly:|
|Most people prefer to pot towards themselves (standing
with the wink on the far side of the pot) - this makes it
easiest to determine whether the wink is aiming towards the
pot. Some prefer to pot sideways (at 90 degrees to the
line between pot and wink), which makes judging distance
slightly easier. It is often useful to aim slightly to one
side of the centre of the pot, since this can reduce the
chance of the wink "scrunging" (bouncing out of the pot).|
Very long pot-style shots are often played two-handed to keep control when force is applied. With a smaller squidger, it is easier to keep fingers from hitting the wink when a pot-style shot is played. Pot-style shots are often used to "bomb" an enemy pile (trying to cause damage with the momentum from the height), or when moving a wink to a position over the pot.
|The Phone Card|
|Potting a wink that is very close to the pot requires a lot of flick
in order to increase vertical movement compared with horizontal travel.
One solution to this is a flexible squidger, which can provide the "flick"
by returning to shape. A suitable material is the plastic used in the
old BT phone cards. The squidger is held very vertically and rotated
around its axis to provide the flick, taking care that the deformation
of the squidger does not cause it to travel off the side of the wink
nearer the pot (the common way to fail a phone card shot is to send
the wink off the mat in the opposite direction).|
This approach can be effective even if winks are slightly nurdled (under the lip of the pot), since the rotation of the wink in flight can allow it to pass the edge of the pot and "climb in". However, it is typically ineffective with winks that are actually touching the base of the pot - a squidging action which pulls the wink away from the pot while potting it works better - and works poorly with large winks. It is hard to get much forward motion from a phone card, so they tend to be used only for this specialised shot.
|A "lunch" is a shot in which a squopped wink
There are generally three reasons you would want to do this. The first is that through some misfortune you are on top of your partner's wink, and it is important that your partner gains the tiddlies - although unless a pile has just been blown there are usually other winks in the pile too. The second is to pot your own wink out from under a pile; having a free shot available means that one can then pot the remaining hopefully-flat wink, whereas potting off the top of the pile may leave lower winks squopped.
The third reason is to leave yourself with a flat wink while not leaving a marauding opposing wink. If it is hard to boondock the squopped wink, or if you wish your opponents to remain squopped-up or constrained in the number of free winks available to them, a lunch may be the way to go about it.
To play a lunch, the upper wink should more-or-less be ignored, with the proviso that the squidger must hit it first. The shot is not dissimilar to playing an air-shot, where one cannot rest on the wink being played. Depending on how the winks lie, it can be easier to pot one's lower wink out of a pile than to pot the uppermost one.
Alternatively - particularly at the end of the game where a squopped colour may have no more turns available - one can just pot off the top of another wink (if the squop is stable, one can almost ignore the lower wink when doing this, although some adjustment is necessary when the winks are not lined up with the pot):